FNH, 3, over the shaft and onto the seal assembly, 2. Press the seal into the bore until the flange is flush with the top of the housing. Support the shaft on a block of wood and use a length of pipe of suitable internal diameter to press the impeller, 1, onto the shaft, 2, and flush with the rear face of the housing.
Check the final position with a straightedge. Support the shaft on a block of wood and press the pulley onto the shaft, to 63 mm 2. After installation, ensure the pulley, 1, runs true on the shaft. Install a new gasket and assemble the front and rear halves of the pump together and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Install the fan on the pulley and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. A 1 Installation 1. Installation of the water pump follows the removal procedure in reverse.
On installation observe the following requirements: Figure Install a new pump gasket. Adjust the alternator drive belt tension. After installation of the radiator, fill the cooling system and run the engine to check for leaks. Remove the left side engine shield to access the air cleaner. Loosen clamps, 2 and 4. Disconnect the air cleaner hoses, 1 and 3. Unlatch the air cleaner strap, 7. Remove cap screw, 5. Remove air cleaner, 6. Remove wing nut, 9, and cover, 8, to access the filters.
Figure Inspection 1. If the air cleaner moves in the retaining clamp, adjust the tension of the clamp. Release the clamp and thread the clamp into the base, 1.
Thread the clamp into the base to pivot the clamp over-center, 2, until 3 to 5 kg 7 to 10 lbs. Inspect the air cleaner canister support hardware, 1 and 2, where the support is attached to the engine head and block, and where the canister is attached to the support, 3. Change worn hardware, if loose, and tighten hardware as required. Change if necessary. Inspect the support, 4, for cracked or failed welds and replace the support if it failed.
Remove the canister end cap, 1, and examine the air cleaner elements for evidence of looseness. Check if the end cap wing nut or sealing washer are missing or have been replaced by a non-factory type.
Check for evidence of the end cap loosening on the threaded shaft, 2. Check if the outer element retaining nut, 3, is loose or there is evidence of the outer element contacting the end cap, 4. Remove the outer element retaining nut and element. Examine the element for evidence of the end seal not sealing properly to the canister. If the outer element is loose, inspect the inside of the outer element and the outside of the safety element for damage.
The outer element may have contacted the safety element and caused damage. Examine the safety element retaining nut and sealing washer, 1, for looseness or damage, or if they are missing.
Remove the safety element and examine for damage. Figure 9. If there is damage to the safety air element, 1, further inspect the air hose for dirt. Inspect the intake side of the intake manifold and the turbocharger for dirt ingestion. Perform a compression test of each cylinder for cylinder wear or damage. Figure Installation 1. Install the safety element, 1, with wing nut and washer.
Tighten the wing nut securely. Install the outer element, 1, with the wing nut and washer. Install the end cap, 2, with the wing nut and washer. NOTE: When replacing filters, use the old outer element wing nut and washer to secure the end cap.
Install the air cleaner, 1, and capscrew, 2. Latch the air cleaner retaining strap, 3. Connect the air cleaner hoses, 4 and 5. Tighten the hose clamps, 6 and 7. The air cleaner, 2, is accessed by opening the rear door and top engine cover and left engine side shield.
The air cleaner assembly uses two elements, a primary element and a safety element. This exposes the primary element, 3.
Pull the primary element, 1, from the canister. Clean any loose dirt from the canister and inspect the end of the canister for dirt that may prevent the new element from sealing properly.
Replace the primary element when the EIC indicates air cleaner restriction. Do not attempt to remove the element when the engine is running because dirt will be sucked into the engine. Do not attempt to clean the element by beating or rapping it. Change the air cleaner element if a loss of power is noted. When installing a new element make sure it seals properly in the canister.
Make sure the inner end of the canister is clean and free of dirt to insure the element will seal properly to prevent dirt from entering the intake of the engine. Failure of a good seal between the filter and canister may cause major engine damage. Do not clean the inner safety filter element, 1. Once the element becomes partially clogged, replace it.
To remove safety element pull the element from the canister. If the element is partially clogged, little light will show through the element. If the element becomes clogged, it will cause air restriction which will cause loss of engine power or excessive exhaust smoke.
For maximum engine protection and air cleaner service life, replace the safety element with a new safety element every third primary element change or hours - whichever occurs first. Inspect the support rod hardware, 1, and the canister support mounting hardware, 2.
Push the elements into the canister firmly for proper sealing inside the canister. Seat the end cap into the lip on the canister at 3, pushing the elements and end cap into position. Relatch the second two clamps after the top is clamped securely. Remove the right side engine shield to access the exhaust muffler. Remove four cap screws, 2.
Remove the exhaust muffler, 1, and gasket, 3. Inspection Check for damage to the housing and mounting flange. Installation After installing a new gasket, reverse the procedure previously outlined. Remove the exhaust muffler.
Remove the left side engine shield. Disconnect the air cleaner to the turbocharger tube and the turbocharger, 1, to intake manifold tube, 4. Disconnect the oil supply and return tubes, 2, from the turbocharger, 1. Cap the ends of the tubes and oil ports of the turbocharger to prevent entry of foreign material. Remove the turbocharger and gasket from the exhaust manifold, 3. Cover the opening in the exhaust manifold to prevent the entry of dirt which could cause damage to the turbine wheel blades after installation and startup.
Disassembly 1. Clean the exterior of the turbocharger using a non-caustic cleaning solvent to remove accumulated surface matter before disassembly. Mark the compressor housing, turbine housing, and center housing with a punch or scribe to facilitate correct positioning of the housings during reassembly. Remove the compressor housing C clip from the center housing intake side. Loosen and remove the bolts from the turbine housing exhaust side and lockplates.
Exploded View of Turbocharger Tap the turbine housing with a soft-faced hammer if force is needed to remove. Retainer plates 1. Turbine housing 3. Retainer bolts 4. Center housing and rotating assembly CHRA 5. C clip 6. O ring 7. Cleaning Before cleaning, inspect all parts for burning, rubbing, or impact damage that may not be evident after cleaning. Clean all parts in a noncaustic solution, using a soft bristle brush, a plastic blade scraper, and dry compressed air to remove residue.
NOTE: Replace the compressor housing if any of the above defects are found. Inspect the turbine housing assembly for the following defects. DO NOT use abrasive cleaning methods which might damage or destroy machined surfaces. Wheel rub damage in the contour area that cannot be polished out with grit silicon carbide abrasive cloth.
DO NOT blow under the compressor wheel with compressed air. Worn, broken, or corroded snap ring grooves snap ring turbine housing models. Nicks, dents, or warpage that could prevent proper sealing between the turbine housing and the CHRA. Operating a turbocharger with damaged blades will result in further damage to component parts or the engine.
Inspect the compressor housing assembly for the following defects: Wheel rub damage in the contour area that cannot be polished out with grit silicon carbide abrasive cloth.
Blades cannot be straightened in service. Worn, broken, or corroded snap ring grooves. As such, it must not be disassembled in any way. If disassembled, the balance will be destroyed and a new CHRA must be fitted. Center Shaft Radial Check Check the journal bearing radial clearance whenever there is reason to suspect that the bearings are worn enough to allow either the compressor wheel or the turbine wheel to rub on its housing. This may be heard as a high-pitched whine.
Figure 1. With the turbocharger removed, attach an indicator with a dogleg probe, to the center housing. The indicator plunger should extend through the oil outlet port and contact the shaft of the turbine wheel assembly. Manually apply equal and simultaneous pressure to the compressor and turbine wheels to move the shaft as far as it will go away from the dial indicator probe. Set the dial indicator to zero. Manually apply equal and simultaneous pressure to the wheels to move the shaft as far as it will go toward the plunger.
Make a note of the shaft movement shown on the indicator dial. NOTE: To make sure the reading indicated is the maximum possible, roll the wheels slightly in both directions while applying pressure. Manually apply equal and simultaneous pressure to the compressor and turbine wheels to move the shaft away from the plunger again. Note that the indicator pointer returns exactly to zero. Repeat steps 2 through 5 several times to ensure that maximum radial clearance, indicated by maximum shaft movement, has been measured.
If the maximum clearance is less than 0. Troubleshoot the engine to find the cause of the bearing failure and correct the problem before resuming operations. Axle Clearance Check Check the thrust bearing axial clearance as follows: 1. Place a dial indicator with the probe on the compressor end of the turbocharger shaft assembly. Set the dial indicator, 1, at zero. Note that the indicator plunger returns to zero. Repeat steps 2 through 5 several times to make sure that the maximum axial clearance, as indicated by maximum shaft movement, has been measured.
Reassembly 1. Replace the following with factoryauthorized parts only at each overhaul or whenever parts are removed. Parts that require changing if faulty or damaged. Inspect all mating surfaces and snap ring groove to ensure that they are free of burrs, foreign matter, and corrosion deposits. Transfer scribe marks from old snap rings to new and coat with a light coating of new engine oil. Install oiled snap ring on compressor end of CHRA with beveled face toward the turbine end.
Install an O ring, 1, on the center housing compressor end flange and place compressor housing assembly in position. Be careful not to damage the compressor wheel blades. Carefully rotate the compressor housing onto the CHRA to line up the scribed marks. Install the oiled snap ring, lug first, into the compressor housing groove. Be sure that the beveled side faces the turbine end and the scribe marks are aligned.
Tap the inner circumference or lug ends of the ring with an appropriately sized drift to ensure proper seating. Position the turbine housing discharge side down on a flat, level surface. Place the CHRA turbine wheel end into the housing, using care to avoid damaging the wheel blades. Check visually for proper alignment. Carefully rotate the CHRA in the turbine housing to line up the scribed marks. Recheck for proper alignment and position the locking plates.
Prior to installation, fill the turbocharger center housing with new clean oil and rotate the main shaft to lubricate the bearings. Installation of the turbocharger follows the removal procedure in reverse. Oil feed tube to turbocharger banjo bolt 4 2.
Oil feed tube to filter head connector 3 3. Connect to filter head 4. Oil return tube from turbocharger to block 5 5. Oil return tube to block connector 6. Oil return connector to block 6 4. The oil feed tube connector to oil filter head assembly, 3, if disturbed, should be refitted. Apply sealer to connector. Apply sealer. If disturbed, oil return tube to block connector, 6, should have sealer applied. Reconnect the air inlet and outlet tubes with the hose clamps and torque to 1.
Reconnect the fuel injection pump solenoid wire. Check the engine oil level and add oil if required. Idle the engine and check all tubes and gaskets for leaks. Run the engine at rated speed and listen for sounds of metallic contact from the turbocharger. If any noise is apparent, stop the engine immediately and correct the cause. NOTE: After the unit has reached operating temperatures, the rotating assembly should coast freely to a stop after the engine is stopped.
If the rotating assembly jerks to a sudden stop, the cause should be corrected immediately. Turbocharger Leaking Oil at Pressure Hose Connection Oil leakage in the area of the connecting hose between the turbocharger and crossover tube to the intake manifold at 1.
This is a result of oil weeping out the joint between the turbocharger and the hose. A small amount of oil blow-by is normal in this turbocharger skid-steer loader application. Due to the extremely high speeds in a turbocharger, the turbine shaft rides on a film of oil. It is a fluid bearing, not a metal bearing, which supports the shaft and keeps it cool. At the ends of the shaft, the oil is not fully sealed with a typical rubber lip seal. A labyrinth seal is used for the shaft to allow the high rotational speed.
The labyrinth seal can protect against oil splashing out, but it will allow pressurized oil to pass by it. When the turbocharger is running, excessive oil blow-by can be demonstrated by intentionally blocking the air intake into the turbocharger. This occurs because the high vacuum causes the oil to travel across the labyrinth seal. This phenomena occurs to a much smaller degree under normal engine operating conditions.
However, it is somewhat worse with an application such as with skid-steer loaders, where the engine is not operated at a constant speed and load. Oil leaking at this connection will also give the appearance that there is an oil leak between the turbine housing and the compressor housing at the retaining ring and O ring. To correct a leak, remove the hose from the turbocharger and tube at 1, and thoroughly clean the connections.
Remove and discard the original hose clamps. These clamps are not properly seating and sealing the hose to the rough casting of the turbocharger or steel tube. NOTE: When the hose is removed, there may be evidence of oil at this connection and inside of the hose and tube. This is normal in the skid-steer loader application.
Order and install two 2 new hose clamps, part , and tighten them to 35 in. Install the hose and clamp onto the turbocharger at 1, half the length of hose, making sure that the hose is positioned to allow enough area of hose past the rolled edge on the turbocharger at 2, to insure the hose clamp will properly seat the hose to the turbocharger.
Figure Install the hose and clamp onto the crossover tube at 3, making sure the tube is fully inserted into the hose so the hose clamp will seal the hose and tube past the rolled edge on the tube. Disconnect the outlet oil pipe from the turbocharger. Reconnect the fuel solenoid wire. Start the engine and let it idle for one minute. Disconnect the electrical wire at the fuel injection pump fuel shutoff solenoid. Place a suitable container below the turbocharger oil outlet port and crank the engine until oil flows from the outlet port.
Check the engine oil level and add oil if necessary. Start the engine and check for oil and air leaks. Reconnect the oil outlet tube, using a new gasket, and tighten the fittings to the following specifications. The valve is screwed into the bottom of the hydraulic head, located between the transfer pump outlet and metering valve. The valve consists of a solenoid assembly which controls a spring-loaded piston.
Figure When the solenoid valve, 1, is energized on starting the engine, the solenoid lifts the piston against spring pressure and allows fuel at the transfer pressure to pass to the metering valve. When the solenoid valve, 1, is de-energized by cutting the electrical supply, the return spring, 4, pushes the piston, 3, back against its seat and prevents the rotor from filling, thereby stopping the engine.
The turbocharged engine incorporates five hole nozzle low inertia injectors. The overhaul procedure for the low inertia injector is described below.
During the nozzle opening pressure and spray pattern tests, collect the spray in a container partly filled with rags to absorb the spray. When conducting the nozzle seat leakage test, release the injector tester pump pressure before touching the nozzle tip with a sheet of blotting paper. The spray is flammable - ensure no bare lights are in the area of the tester and do not generate excessive vapor.
Fill the injector tester with a calibrating fuel oil ISO and leave the filler cap loose to prevent a vacuum forming during testing. Prime the tester until oil is emitted from the tester line, then connect the injector. Ensure the knob on the right-hand side of the tester is screwed in to prevent the gauge being overpressurized if the injector nozzle is blocked.
Pump the tester and check that the nozzle is free to open. Open the pressure gauge valve and begin injector testing. If the nozzle is blocked or the needle jammed, begin the disassembly procedures. Nozzle opening pressure setting: Slowly pump the injector tester and observe the pressure at which the needle valve lifts and fuel is injected from the nozzle tip.
The opening pressure should be bar NOTE: If a new spring has been fitted, the opening pressure should be set to PSI bar to allow for spring settling.
The nozzle tip and bottom face must remain essentially dry, and there must be no tendency for blobs of fuel to collect or drip. A slight dampness can be ignored. If there is any leakage from the nozzle seat, the nozzle assembly must be scrapped.
If below 6 seconds, the nozzle assembly must be scrapped. Spray Pattern: Pump the tester rapidly strokes per min. An atomized spray free from distortion, irregular streaks of unvaporized fuel and hosing should be observed. The tester is not regarded as providing a substitute for atomization under working conditions but gives an approximate indication of the working of the nozzle. Place the injector in a holding fixture with the nozzle uppermost.
Do not clamp the injector body in a vise. Remove the nozzle retaining nut complete with the nozzle body, nozzle valve, and the doweled adapter plate. Remove the injector body, 1, from the holding fixture, invert and carefully remove the spring seat, 5; spring, 10; and adjustment shims, 4.
To avoid damage, place all dismantled components in suitable baths of clean fuel oil. Clean the injector body by soaking in a carbon solvent and brushing with a brass wire brush. Inspect the body threads and pressure face for damage, ensuring the fuel galleries are thoroughly clean with no signs of corrosion or pitting. Clean the spring and spring seat using a brass wire brush and check for scoring, pitting or corrosion. Clean the doweled adapter plate using a brass wire brush.
Inspect the plate for loose or bent dowels, damaged pressure face or corrosion. Clean the nozzle valve and body by soaking in a carbon solvent and brushing with a wire brush. Using the tools included in a proprietary injector nozzle cleaning kit, clean the nozzle, 2, as follows: NOTE: If the nozzle valve is in any way damaged or blued, it must be discarded and a new matched nozzle valve and nozzle body assembly obtained.
It is not possible to grind or lap the three special angles on the valve point. Clean the spray holes with a 0. Insert the wire into each hole, pushing and rotating gently until each hole is cleared. Clean the nozzle valve seat using the valve seat scraper, 1, by rotating and pushing the tool onto the valve seating. Figure c. Clean the fuel gallery using the fuel gallery scraper, 1.
Insert the scraper into the gallery, press hard against the side of the cavity, and rotate to clear all carbon deposits from this area. FNH, on the injector tester and reverse flush the nozzle to remove the carbon loosened during cleaning operation 4. Inspect the nozzle valve and body for scoring or pitting and ensure there are no deposits of carbon or corrosion.
Check that the spray holes and fuel galleries are clean and that no blueing is present. The nozzle valve must move freely within the nozzle body. Clean the nozzle retaining nut using a brass wire brush and check that the threads are not damaged and are free from carbon deposits.
Ensure all parts are absolutely clean and undamaged prior to reassembly. Rinse all parts in clean fuel oil and assemble the components while still wet. Place the shims, spring and spring seat into the injector body bore. There are no reviews yet. Categories: New Holland , SkidSteer. Sections of the Manual The Manual is into main groups and subgroups, and covers any previous version of the machine.
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